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Climbing & Via Ferrata in the Schlick 2000
Hardly any other valley in Tyrol offers such a quantity and variety of climbing opportunities as the Stubaital. Due to its high alpine beauty and optimal conditions, it is an Eldorado for alpine climbing and via ferrata climbers. The majority of the free climbing routes in the Kalkkögel area are very serious routes with difficult protection options, in some cases not reliable rock.
What exactly is a via ferrata?
A via ferrata is a climbing route on natural rock secured with iron ladders, iron steps and steel ropes. On hikes, dangerous passages have been secured with steel ropes for quite some time - today's via ferratas have developed from this. By the way, the Italian name for via ferrata is Via Ferrata (Vie Ferrate), which means iron path.
To walk on these secured via ferratas, you need the complete via ferrata safety equipment. A harness, a via ferrata set and a helmet. For those new to via ferrata, it is definitely advisable to make the first ascents under the guidance of professional mountain guides. The equipment can be rented in many places.
Here you will find a small selection of via ferratas and climbing tours with different levels of difficulty:
Easy difficulty level
Classic alpine Kögeltour, which winds over the impressive ridge of the so-called Schlicker Manndln.
Click here for details on bergsteigen.com
Medium difficulty level
Very rewarding route that leads to a shapely peak in the Kalkkögeln and, in addition to the climbing, has a lot to offer in terms of scenery.
High difficulty level
Great via ferrata in wonderful surroundings of the Kalkkögel. The Schlicker via ferrata (often also called Ochsenwand via ferrata) is certainly one of the best via ferrata in Tyrol.
Access to the wall: With the train up to the mountain station Kreuzjoch, from there down (on forest road or slope) to the Zirmachalm and continue on the gravel path until a well-trodden trail branches off to the left (large sign) to the entrance (small sign). Without the railroad there is an additional effort of about 1.5 hours.
Descent: From the summit, follow the markings over the north ridge, which is completely secured in the steep section and should not be underestimated (leave your via ferrata equipment and helmet on at the summit). Time: 1.5 hours to the Alpenklubscharte. From there follow the marked path to the Schlicker Alm and further to the station Froneben (or further into the valley).
All details incl. GPS track can be found here on the page of the Stubai Tourism Association.
Extraordinary and varied mountain tour with final via ferrata in the midst of a bizarre landscape of rock towers and steep faces.
Access to the wall: Access to the Alpenklubscharte from the Schlicker Alm. The alpine pasture is reached from the middle station Froneben (with the cable car from Fulpmes) Alternative access from the Kemater Alm left on the gravel path to the Adolf Pichler hut, 1977 m ascent. At the hut turn left to the Alpenklubscharte, 2451 m, which is already clearly visible. From the saddle, follow the red markers to the left to the entrance.
Descent: You have to climb down again on the via ferrata. From the Alpenklubscharte you climb back to the starting point on the respective access path.
All details incl. GPS track can be found here on the page of the Stubai Tourism Association.
You can also find more details on the page of the Alpenverein.
Please note:
Climbing on the via ferratas is only permitted for experienced climbers or only under supervision!
Climbing and walking on a via ferrata requires knowledge of climbing or via ferrata safety techniques. In addition, the use of the complete safety equipment (consisting of harness, via ferrata set, helmet, etc.) is obligatory.
The equipment as well as an introduction to the basic concepts of climbing up to the specialization you will receive at the mountaineering school Sepp Rettenbacher.
