The formidable one
Simply stop and look up at this monolith. From the lake Grünau, which is close to the Sulzenau Hut, you can see the Wilder Freiger (to the north) posing in front of you – as beautiful to look at as his italian name “Cima Libera” sounds. In the back part of Ridnaun in the Stubai Alps, on the borders of Austria and Italy, the Wilder Freiger rises from the main Alpine ridge between Freigerscharte (gap) and Pfaffennieder. The gap of the Pfaffennieder separates it from the Wilde Pfaff and the Zuckerhütl, a 3,418-meter high pyramidal peak of consolidated snow (firn), that demonstrates that it belongs to the “big ones” in the valley and therefore functions a favorite playground for alpine adventurers.
Via paths, glaciers and icy flanks, the Wilder Freiger can be ascended from different sides and by different paths. The sea of mountain ridges and clouds that form a panorama for you when standing at the top is nothing less than overwhelming. The 360° view stretches from the Dolomites to the Ortler and to the Ötztal, as well as to the Stubai Alps and to the Hohe Tauern.
When ascending the Wilder Freiger for the first time in 1869 Julius Ficker and his two mountain guides from the Stubai, Pankraz Gleinser and Sebastian Rainalter, had to walk all the way from Neustift to Ranalt, where they hiked through Längenthal to their overnight stay at the hut on the Hoher Grübel. The next day, they hiked about 5 hours from the hut to the peak. The glacier and the massive ice, which was covering the Wilder Freiger, were impressive and demanding at the same time, as they surrounded them on all sides. Bit by bit, alpine huts were built and trails installed around the Wilder Freiger. Already in 1912, a high mountain route – the Lübecker Weg – connected the Dresdner Hütte (hut) across the peak of the Wilder Freiger with the hut on the Becher. This path was installed as an ice free crossing from Stubai, over the main Alpine ridge to Ridnaun, from the Dresdner Hütte (hut) via Peiljoch to the Fernerstube (cabin) and from there onto the bottom of the ridge to the Aperer Freiger and further on across the slopes uphill to the Lübecker Scharte (gap) where an almost continuous wire-rope secured ascent begins.
Start: Parking space Sulzenau Hütte (1590 m) bzw. Nürnberger Hütte (1370 m)
Destination: Wilder Freiger (3418 m)
Walking time via Sulzenau Hütte: 1. day ↑ 2 h, 2. day ↑ 5 h ↓ 6 h
Vertical height: 1. day 600 Hm, 2. day 1300 Hm
Walking time via Nürnberger Hütte: 1. day ↑ 2½ h, 2. day ↑ 4½ h ↓ 5 h
Vertical height: 1. day 1000 Hm, 2. day 1150 Hm
Huts and cabins: Sulzenau Alm (1857 m), Sulzenauhütte (2191 m) or Bsuachalm (1580 m), Nürnberger Hütte (2297 m)
SEVEN SUMMITS rating
Characteristics: Alpine Peak Tour – orientation aids do not function around the peak, difficult orientation in foggy conditions, full glacier equipment necessary. If you do not have alpine peak tour experience, we recommend that you are accompanied by a state-certified mountain guide.
HOW TO GET THERE / STARTING POINT
Starting points for these tours are the two free-of-charge chalet car parks for the Sulzenau Hütte or the Nürnberger Hütte which are located at the far end of the Stubaital.
Day 1: On the first day, we travel at a leisurely pace across the Sulzenau Alm alpine pasture to the Sulzenau Hütte in two hours, or in 2.5 hours across the Bsuachalm alpine pasture to the Nürnberger Hütte. Both chalets are ideal for overnight stays and the starting point for climbing the Wilder Freiger Mountain.
Day 2: First we ascend the Seescharte (2,762 m) which is reached from the Sulzenau Hütte via the Grünausee and from the Nürnberger Hütte via many winding paths. Afterwards, the path crosses under the Gamsspitze and then leads over rough rocks to the glacier entry (ca. 3,160 m). We go over the ridge up to approx. 3,340 m where we reach a firn field. Afterwards, we pass a stone customs house (Zollhäusl) on our way to the ridge which leads to the peak of the Wilder Freiger.