Very interesting, long and beautiful via ferrata, one of the most famous ones in Austria.
Characteristic:The route has been constructed along the south ridge of Große Ochsenwand, therefore danger of rock fall exists only in the lower part of the ascent. The lightly overhanging rock face at the entry and the following dihedrals are the most difficult passages. If someone is over challenged at these passages better turn back, because the difference of high altitude of approx. 700 m (thereof 500 m secured) demands condition and well-experienced mountaineers. Also the descent on the regular path - very interesting as independent via ferrata excursion – has several secured passages. Throughout well secured, some passages need lots of energy, red signposted. Unsuitable for children and unexperienced!
Difficulty:Very difficult. In the lower part on 400 Hm throughout B to C, some passages at the entry C/D or D, at the upper part part mostly walking area with short, secured passages (A/B to C/D) and some easy climbing passages to 1+
Danger:In the lower part danger of rock fall; the descent is also classified as via ferrate and after snowfall partly difficult.
Best season: June - October
Durations / Difference in high altitude: Access ......... 1,5 Std. / 650 Hm (from mid-station); 1 hour from mountain stationVia ferrata ... 3 hours / 700 HmDescent ....... 3-3,5 hours / until 1350 Hm
Exposition: south to south-east
Equipment: via ferrata set, helmet, good mountain boots or climbing shoes; security rope for youths;
Valley location / Info: Fulpmes in the Stubai valley, 937 m, Tel: +43 (0) 501881-0
Starting point: Mid-station „Froneben“, 1351 m or mountain station „Kreuzjoch“, 2108 m of the cableway „Schlick 2000“ (Kreuzjochbahn) in Fulpmes.
Base: Schlicker Alm, 1640 m, private, Restaurant, open from mid-May – end-oct.; Tel. +43 (0)5225/62409 (Taxi service to Schlickeralm, Tel. +43 (0)5225/62409)
Arrival: From Innsbruck via Brenner motorway A13 or on the main road to junction Stubaital and Fulpmes. Through the village towards “Schlick2000” or “Kreuzjochbahn” to the valley station of the cableway. Train/Bus: main station Innsbruck and by bus to Fulpmes
Accesses:a) From mid-station „Froneben“:Ascend by cableway to station Froneben (1351 m; to here from Fulpmes approx. 1 hour walking time). From here on the forest trail in 40-50 minutes to Schlicker Alm (1640 m; Access also permitted by mountain bike!). Another 20 minutes on the road into the valley to a big red signpost showing you the direction to “Schlicker Klettersteig”, from where you walk 25 minutes to the access.
b) From mountain station „Kreuzoch“: Along the forest trail or over the pistes downwards to Zirmachalm and in a big turn to the other valley side to the junction of the access path to the via ferrata (approx. 40 minutes shorter than the ascend a)
Taxi service to Schlickeralm: Tel. +43 (0)5225/62409.
Descend:„Nordgrat (north-ridge)-via ferrata“ to Alpenklub-Scharte: From the summit along the ridge to the north, descent on rocky area to a scarp (C) over where you reach a wind gap. At the opposite a short way upwards (B) and on the left side forward to further securities, which lead over an exposed, steep rock ridge (partly B and B/C). At the imposing towers a short crossing and approx. 100m descent (B to B/C) to a wind gap with a rock tower. Now in east direction below the Kleine Ochsenwand towards north, crossing fine ledges in 15-20 minutes to Alpenklub Scharte (2451m). From here on the signposted trail “Gsaller Weg” (the “Gsaller Weg” leads to north-east direction to the Marchreisen Spitze) to east direction downwards to Roßgrube and back to Schlicker Alm.
Tip: The ascent over the secured north ridge via ferrata (B and C) to the Große Ochsenwand is also worth to climb as an independent 1-day excursion.