Elfer Nordwand C to D

Via ferrata through the north-face of the domestic mountain of Neustift, beautiful panorama view over Neustift.

Very airy and interesting fixed rope route, which ideally can be connected by the beautiful and advisable “Elferkofel” via ferrata. The track leads upwards in the middle part on the left-hand side of an imposing gorge and finally reaches from the south over the steep summit face the western part of the “Elferturm”. Danger of rock-fall in the area of the gorge-crossing. With security-rope also suitable for children with climbing experience.

Difficulty: Very difficult, mainly C, one stage D, a few short climbing points 1+ and 2-

Danger: in early summer-time partly remaining snow

Best season: June - October

Times/ Difference in height

Access 1-1,5 hrs. 460 Hm
Fixe rope route 1 hrs. 220 Hm
Descent 1-1,5 hrs. 680 Hm


Exposition: North-west

Equipment: via ferrata set, helmet, mountain boots, security-rope for children or beginners

Valley location / Info: Neustift im Stubaital, 993 m, phone: +43 (0) 501881-0

Starting point: Mountain station Elferlifte, 1800 m

Base: Elfer Hut 2004 m, restaurant, overnight-stay, open from June to Oct.; phone. +43 (0) 5226-2818

Arrival: From Innsbruck over Brenner-motorway A13 (toll-fee) or on the federal road to exit Stubaital and further on to Neustift in the Stubai valley, to bottom-station Elferlifte (well-signposted), large parking site.

Train / bus: Main station Innsbruck, Bus to Neustift.

Access: 1-1,5 hours from mountain station Elferlift and in 25-30 min. along a comfortable serpentine-path to the Elfer hut. Further on in south direction to Elferkofel, until - after 20-25 min. - the access-path to north-face route (sign: „Nordwand-Kletterroute“) branches-off on your right-hand side.  On a constantly yellow-signposted path („Gamssteig“) you cross the steep flanks below the Elfer-towers to a mountain-ridge. From here you already have a good view into the distinctive north-gorge. On the diverting, yellow-signposted path (on south-west direction the path leads to „Zwölfernieder-saddle“) straight ahead and always on your left hand side upwards to the start of the belays. Routes and path – course: Please see ascent-view.

Descent: 1-1,5 hours; Climbing-down the summit face again to mountain-ridge, passing the back-side of a big clamping-block and climbing-down a short way (1+) to a steep chimney. Downwards the chimney (C/2-), crossing a band (A/B) and short two-way ascent to „Elfer-saddle“ (signposted).  Now either the north-way back to Elfer hut, or ideally the „Elferkofel via ferrata“ (B to c/2-, crossing) further on to „Zwölfernieder-Scharte“.

Topo Elfer Nordwand


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